Rivers, Waterfalls, Wild Swims: A Local Guide to the Una and Neretva
- By StayBa
The Una and the Neretva are the two great blue threads that stitch Bosnia and Herzegovina together. One flows emerald through forests and waterfalls in the far north west. The other tumbles out of cold mountain springs, carving canyons before passing the stone towns of Herzegovina. This guide gives you a clear plan for where to base yourself, how to time your trip, what to do on the water, and where to stay nearby. No fluff. Just what you need to make it brilliant and safe.
At a glance
- Best months for water fun: June to September for swimming and family rafting. Spring has stronger flows that suit experienced paddlers.
- Bases on the Una: Bihać, Lohovo, Ripač, Kulen Vakuf, Martin Brod.
- Bases on the Neretva: Konjic, Glavatičevo, Jablanica.
- Kravice Waterfalls sit on the Trebižat River, a tributary of the Neretva, near Ljubuški and Čapljina.
- Typical trip style: two to four nights on the Una, two to three nights on the Neretva and Trebižat, with stay moves kept short.
When to go
Swimming and easy rafting
Late June through early September offers warmer air and stable river levels on both rivers. The water is always refreshing. The Neretva stays cold even in high summer because it is spring fed. Plan swims for sunny afternoons and keep them short if you are sensitive to cold.
Whitewater and bigger flow
April to early June often brings stronger currents after snow melt and spring rain. This is the time for guided rafting if you want more power and waves. Families and first timers are better in mid summer when flow is moderate and guides pick calmer sections.
Crowds and light
July and August are popular. Early starts give you the best light and quiet at waterfalls. September is a sweet spot with warm days and fewer people.
Getting there and around
- By air: Sarajevo is the main entry. For the Una, Zagreb or Zadar can also work, then a drive to Bihać. For the south, Dubrovnik and Mostar are options for Herzegovina.
- By car: You will need a car if you want freedom to hop between river bases, trailheads and small villages. Roads are in good shape on main routes. Allow extra time on mountain roads.
- Fuel and tolls: Carry some cash for fuel in smaller towns and for highway tolls on long moves.
The Una River: what to see and where to base
The Una is a protected national park of forest, travertine cascades and clear water. It is the river people fall in love with.
Bihać
The main hub with supermarkets, outfitters, and riverside promenades. Use it as a base for day trips to Štrbački Buk and Martin Brod or for rafting sections upstream and downstream of town.
Štrbački Buk
A tiered waterfall of real power. Viewing platforms give safe vantage points. You do not swim at the main fall. Come early for mist and rainbows. Bring a light spray jacket for the drift.
Martin Brod
At the southern edge of the park. Paths weave along channels and smaller falls. This is a gentler place to sit with the sound of water and have a picnic. Great for photographers and families.
Kulen Vakuf and the middle Una
A quieter base mid river. Good for kayaking on calmer stretches, short hikes to lookouts, and wildlife watching at dusk.
How to plan your Una days
- One half day at Štrbački Buk.
- One half day at Martin Brod.
- One day for rafting or kayaking with a licensed guide.
- Optional extra day for slow time in Kulen Vakuf or to visit the old forts above the river.
The Neretva and its tributary Trebižat: what to see and where to base
The upper Neretva near Konjic is a rafting classic with clear cold water and mountain views. Farther south, the Trebižat River forms Kravice Waterfalls, a perfect place for a summer swim day.
Konjic
An easy drive from Sarajevo. The town has a handsome stone bridge, rafting outfitters on every corner, and access to clear canyon sections. The water is cold. Wetsuits are standard for guided trips even in summer.
Glavatičevo and the upper valley
Small villages and quiet river bends with pebble beaches. This is a good base if you want a mix of rafting one day and hiking or lake time the next.
Jablanica and Boračko Lake
Jablanica sits on the main road between Sarajevo and Mostar. Boračko Lake is nearby for warm water swims and paddle hire in summer. Pair lake time with a morning rafting run from Konjic.
Kravice Waterfalls near Ljubuški
A wide curtain of falls on the Trebižat River. There is an entrance fee and seasonal facilities. Swims are allowed in marked zones when conditions are safe. Come early or late to avoid busy midday periods. Combine with a visit to Koćuša or with lunch in Čapljina.
How to plan your Neretva and Trebižat days
- One day for rafting from Konjic.
- One day for Boračko Lake and an easy hike.
- One day for Kravice Waterfalls and a lazy afternoon in Trebinje or Mostar.
Wild swimming, safety and etiquette
Water temperature
Expect cold water on the Neretva at any time of year. The Una is cool to cold. Limit time in the water if you are not used to it. Children will chill faster than adults.
Currents and entry points
Never jump into unknown pools. Enter from beaches or steps where locals swim. Avoid swimming near the base of waterfalls and in fast channels. Follow local signage and staff advice in national park zones.
Guided activities
For rafting or canyoning always use licensed operators who provide helmets and buoyancy aids. Ask guides about minimum ages for children. Summer runs are often fine for children who are comfortable in water and meet height or weight guidance.
Fishing and permits
Fishing is regulated. Buy a local permit and follow catch rules. If in doubt ask at the park gate or a sport shop in town.
Leave no trace
Pack out all litter. Do not disturb river banks or vegetation. Drones may require permission in protected areas.
What to pack
- Swimwear and quick drying layers.
- Water shoes or shoes that can get wet with good grip.
- A light towel and a warm layer for post swim.
- Sun protection.
- A dry bag for phone and documents on rafting or kayak days.
- Motion sickness tablets if you are sensitive to small boats or winding roads.
- Cash for park entries and small cafes.
Sample itineraries
Three nights focused on the Una
Base: Bihać or Kulen Vakuf
- Day 1. Arrive, walk the riverside in Bihać, dinner by the water.
- Day 2. Štrbački Buk in the morning, Martin Brod in the afternoon.
- Day 3. Guided rafting or kayaking, then a slow sunset on the deck of your lodge.
Four nights split between upper Neretva and Kravice
Bases: Konjic then Ljubuški or Čapljina
- Day 1. Arrive in Konjic, stroll the old bridge, book your rafting slot.
- Day 2. Rafting day with wetsuits and a warm lunch after.
- Day 3. Move south. Stop at Boračko Lake for a swim, then continue to Ljubuški.
- Day 4. Kravice early, lazy lunch, optional evening in Trebinje or Mostar.
One week combining both rivers
- Two nights Bihać for the Una waterfalls and a river run.
- Two nights Konjic for rafting and lake time.
- Two nights Ljubuški or Čapljina for Kravice and Trebižat swims.
- One night in Mostar or Trebinje to end with a great meal and a slow walk.
Where to stay
This is where the trip moves from good to great. Pick places that make you want to get back early for sunset and slow mornings by the water.
On the Una and in Krajina
- Riverside lodges and cabins in Bihać with decks over the water.
- Family cottages with gardens in Lohovo and Ripač.
- Small guesthouses near Martin Brod for easy access to trails and falls.
Upper Neretva around Konjic and Glavatičevo
- Mountain lodges near river put ins that serve hot meals after cold water days.
- Simple apartments in Konjic within walking distance of the bridge and outfitters.
- Lakeside places near Boračko for warm afternoon swims.
Herzegovina for Kravice and Trebižat
- Villas with private pools near Ljubuški and Čapljina for summer comfort.
- Traditional stone houses around Mostar for culture packed evenings.
- Apartments in Trebinje if you want a slower town with wine bars and long golden hours.
If you want inspiration beyond the river focus, look at collections like glamping and domes, treehouses and A frame cabins, heritage and ethno stays, and secluded forest and mountain cabins. They pair well with water days.
Food and drink along the way
- In Krajina try trout, kajmak and hearty grilled dishes.
- In Herzegovina order dishes from the peka, local cheeses and olive oil, and wines like Žilavka and Vranac.
- In Konjic seek out simple riverfront places that do one or two things very well.
- Always carry water and a fruit snack on hot days. Rivers look cool, sun still burns.
Common questions
Can I swim at Kravice Waterfalls
Yes, when conditions are safe and in marked zones. There is an entry fee and seasonal facilities. The water is cool. Early or late in the day is calmer.
Is rafting safe for children
In summer many sections are gentle and guides are used to family trips. Ask your operator about minimum ages, equipment provided, and what to wear. Expect cold water on the Neretva.
Do I need a guide to hike to waterfalls
Main sites like Štrbački Buk and Martin Brod have marked paths and viewing platforms. For longer hikes and canyon routes use a local guide.
How cold is the water
Cold enough that most people will not stay in long. The Neretva is spring fed and remains cold in summer. The Una is cool to cold. Plan short dips and bring a warm layer.
Final tips from locals
- Start early. You will have the water to yourself and the best light.
- Keep drives short. The joy here is slow time by the river.
- Book one signature activity per base. A river day in Bihać. A rafting day in Konjic. A slow swim and picnic day at Kravice.
- Choose stays that are part of the experience. A deck over the river beats a long drive back to a generic bed.
Bosnia and Herzegovina does not just give you places to tick off. It gives you days built around water, clean air, and simple food. Plan it well and you will leave rested, a little sun touched, and very keen to return.