A Perfect Herzegovina Weekend: Old Bridges, Stone Towns, Vineyard Sunsets, Private Pool Villas
- By StayBa
Herzegovina is the warm, sunlit south of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Think stone towns, rivers that glow at golden hour, vineyards on quiet hillsides, and villas where dinner is eaten outdoors long after the heat has eased. This guide gives you a clear plan for a two or three day break that feels rich but relaxed. It covers where to base yourself, what to see without rushing, where to swim, what to eat, and the kinds of places to stay that lift the whole trip.
At a glance
- Best months: April to June and September to October for warm days and easier crowds. July and August are very hot in the afternoon.
- Bases that work: Mostar for the Old Bridge and easy day trips, Trebinje for vineyards and soft evenings, Ljubuški or Čapljina for Kravice Waterfalls.
- Typical move: Two nights in Mostar with a day in Blagaj and Počitelj, then one night in Trebinje. If you want more water time, swap Trebinje for a night near Kravice.
Getting there
- From Sarajevo to Mostar takes about two and a half hours by the M17 along the Neretva.
- From Dubrovnik to Trebinje takes about 40 minutes in normal traffic.
- From Split to Ljubuški or Čapljina takes about two hours and thirty minutes.
- A car makes the weekend easy. Roads are good on main routes. Expect slower speeds through towns and at roadworks.
When to go
Spring and early autumn are ideal. Days are warm, nights are pleasant, and you can tour in the middle of the day without the heavy heat. In high summer plan early starts, a shaded lunch, and late afternoons for your main walking. Kravice Waterfalls and Mostar’s Old Bridge are busiest from late morning to mid afternoon. Early or late is calmer and better for photos.
Suggested plan: two nights in Mostar, one night in Trebinje
Day 1: Mostar Old Town and golden hour on the bridge
Arrive in Mostar by late morning and settle in. Start with a slow loop through the Old Town. Cross the Old Bridge, watch divers test the water, and visit the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque terrace for the classic bridge view. Explore side lanes for copperwork and stone houses. Save your longest walk for the hour before sunset when the light turns soft.
Stay ideas
- Apartments with Old Bridge views for morning and evening photos [Mostar Apartments with Old Bridge Views].
- Traditional stone houses in the Old Town for a sense of place [Traditional Herzegovinian Stone Houses].
- Villas with private pools just outside town for space and quiet [Villas with Private Pools].
Eat and drink
Order a simple lunch by the river. In the evening, look for modern bistros off the main lanes, or head to a terrace above the water. Ask for local Žilavka white or Vranac red.
Day 2: Blagaj and Počitelj, then swim or a vineyard sunset
Morning in Blagaj
Drive 20 minutes to Blagaj. The Dervish House sits at the source of the Buna River under a high cliff. Walk the short path along the water and tour the house. Light is best in the first hours of the day. If you like a gentle start, take coffee at the water’s edge.
Late morning in Počitelj
Continue 30 minutes to Počitelj. This stone town climbs a hillside above the Neretva. Walk up past mosques and stone houses to the tower for a full view of the river. It is hot at midday, so take water and rest in shade. Počitelj is small and rewarding even with a short visit.
Afternoon option A: Kravice Waterfalls
If you want a swim day, drive to Kravice near Ljubuški. There is an entrance fee and seasonal facilities. Swimming is allowed in marked areas when conditions are safe. The water is cool, which feels perfect after a hot walk. Late afternoon is calmer and the light is good.
Link it with a stop in Čapljina for an easy dinner.
Afternoon option B: Trebinje vineyards
If you prefer a slower pace, drive to Trebinje for the night. The town has a calm riverfront, stone bridges, and hillside monasteries with wide views. Visit a local winery in the late afternoon, then wander through the plane tree shaded square as the day cools.
Stay ideas
- For a Kravice focus, book a villa with a private pool near Ljubuški or Čapljina [Villas with Private Pools] or look for family homes with gardens [Family Holiday Homes with Gardens].
- For Trebinje, pick a heritage villa near the centre or a small hotel beside the river. If you want space, many villas sit just outside town with terraces that face the sunset.
Day 3: Trebinje to monasteries, markets and slow time
Start with coffee in the main square under the plane trees. Visit Hercegovačka Gračanica on the hill for a full view of town and vineyards. If you enjoy markets, the Trebinje green market runs most mornings with local produce, cheese and honey. Lunch beside the river and plan your onward drive. Dubrovnik is close if you are carrying on to the coast. Sarajevo is four hours away in normal traffic if you are looping back.
Alternative plan: two nights near Kravice, one night in Mostar
If your weekend is all about swimming and slow outdoor time, make Kravice your base and plan your sightseeing around the edges of the day.
- Day 1:
Arrive near Ljubuški or Čapljina. Swim late afternoon at Kravice. Dinner at a simple riverside place.
- Day 2:
Early Kravice swim or a short trip to Koćuša. Late morning in Počitelj. Evening in Mostar for golden hour on the bridge. Return to your villa for a late swim.
- Day 3:
Morning in Blagaj for the Dervish House. Drive to Trebinje for lunch and a vineyard stop. Head home from there or return to Mostar for a final night if you prefer a city base.
Driving times to help you plan
- Mostar to Blagaj about 20 minutes
- Mostar to Počitelj about 30 minutes
- Mostar to Kravice about 45 minutes
- Blagaj to Počitelj about 40 minutes
- Trebinje to Ljubuški about 2 hours
- Trebinje to Dubrovnik about 40 minutes in normal traffic
Always check local traffic and weather. Summer roadworks can slow the main routes. In high heat, plan your longest walks for early or late.
Where to stay
Old Bridge views
If this is your first time in Mostar, an apartment with a balcony facing Stari Most is worth it. You can step out at sunrise and again before dinner when the lanes are quiet.
Traditional stone houses
The south is full of historic homes with thick walls and shaded courtyards. They stay cooler and feel right for the setting. Look in Mostar, Počitelj and Stolac.
Villas with private pools
Herzegovina is hot in summer. A private pool at a villa near Trebinje or Ljubuški makes the middle of the day easier. It is also ideal for families who want downtime between outings.
Family homes with gardens
If you are travelling with children, a safe garden and outdoor dining make life simple. Choose villages near Kravice or on the edges of Mostar to keep drives short.
Browse collections that match this weekend
- Herzegovina region stays [Herzegovina]
- Traditional stone houses [Traditional Herzegovinian Stone Houses]
- Villas with pools [Villas with Private Pools]
- Apartments with Old Bridge views [Mostar Apartments with Old Bridge Views]
- Stays near Blagaj Tekija [Accommodation near the Blagaj Dervish House]
- Stays near Kravice [Accommodation near Kravice Waterfalls]
Food and drink
- Herzegovina produces olive oil, figs and honey. Look for these on menus and at small farm shops.
- Order peka if you see it. Meat or octopus is slow cooked under a metal bell and served with potatoes and herbs.
- The south is wine country. Žilavka white is crisp in the heat. Vranac and Blatina are common reds.
- In Mostar try a simple grilled lunch by the water at midday and save your longer meal for after sunset.
- In Trebinje seek out a winery visit in the late afternoon and dinner in the old square as the light goes soft.
Practical notes
- Parking in Mostar’s Old Town is limited. Your host can advise on the nearest pay lot.
- Kravice has an entry fee and seasonal shuttle. Wear water shoes if you plan to swim. The stones can be slippery.
- Dress for heat. A hat, water and a light cover for shoulders make hot midday walks easier.
- Carry some cash. Cards are widely accepted, but small cafés and parking often prefer cash.
- Respect religious sites. Shoulders and knees covered is a simple rule for mosques and monasteries.
FAQs
Is it worth staying in Mostar rather than day tripping ?
Yes. Early mornings and late evenings are when Mostar feels best. Staying in town gives you those hours without a drive.
Can you swim at Kravice Waterfalls ?
Yes, in marked zones when conditions are safe. The water is cool even in summer. Early or late is calmer.
How hot does Herzegovina get in July and August ?
Very hot in the middle of the day. Plan walks for early or late, swim or rest at midday, and book accommodation with shade or a pool.
Is Trebinje worth a night ?
If you enjoy wine, wide views, and an easy old town, yes. It is calmer than Mostar and makes a good final evening.
A simple packing list
- Light clothing, hat and sunglasses
- Swimwear and water shoes
- Comfortable shoes for uneven stone lanes
- Refillable water bottle
- Camera or phone with space for photos
- A light scarf or shirt for religious sites
Final word
A weekend in Herzegovina should feel unhurried. Choose one or two bases, plan your longest walks for gentle light, and give yourself time to sit near the water. Pick stays that match the heat and the mood, whether that is a balcony over the Old Bridge, a cool stone courtyard, or a pool by a quiet vineyard. Keep drives short, keep lunches simple, and let the evenings stretch. That is the way to make this corner of the country feel as good as it looks.